Napoli and Rome again...

The Narrow Streets of Napoli

Ok, so we didn't make it to Mt. Vesuvius... this time. It was late this morning by the time we got going and we missed our opportunity to go and still have time to catch the train. Sylvia and Sergio had stayed up late and then there was the massive celebration in the streets until 1 or 2 in the morning, which kept everyone awake. It probably goes without saying that Italy won the match.

While we were waiting for Sylvia to organise her bag this morning, Sergio showed me his extensive and enviable collection of travel books, many of which were in English. As I drooled over all the possibilities, we discussed the possibility of meeting somewhere else in Italy or Portugal for a walk next year.

In any case, our plan for today evolved to go to Napoli, have a pizza and then get the train to Rome. And that is where I am now. A few minutes ago, I pulled the ipad out to use primarily as a fan because the train was like a sauna, but then we discovered that ours was the only car without air conditioning, we promptly moved and I was able to release the ipad from fan fan duty.

Pizza for One... Why arent Italians Fat?

Sergio has been an absolute star; aside from picking us up, hosting us in his beautiful home and yesterday's tour, this morning he drove us back to Naples and gave us the back streets tour. Unlike Rome, Naples feels real place and not contrived for tourists. I had been warned about all the crime there, but I did not feel unsafe and to my surprise, I liked it. Little alleys built on old roman sites, and an underground city and catacombs. Understated, but full of life and interest, as well as excellent pizza at Gino Sorbillo's. We each ordered a different kind and then shared pieces. The rumor is that Sorbillo's restaurant was recently torched by the Mafia, but they rebuilt and opened again for business in 20 days. Sergio says that there is a good school in Naples if you want to learn to be a pizza cook, and good pizza cooks make more than €2000.00 a month, which isn't a bad wage here in Italy.

Later still... I am at a Bed and Breakfast in Fiumicino that I found on the internet. It is basic, and a little misleading from the super photos they had posted, but it is clean and the owners who are from Argentina, are very nice. I am down to my last 5 euro, so they are going to drive me the the Bancomat later on, which is very kind, especially since I have already paid them.

With just a few hours left before I board my plane to Canada, this adventure is drawing to a close. Italy has been a wonderful surprise for me in so many ways. It's beauty, the genuine warmth of the people and fine food will surely keep me coming back again and again....

Paestum and Amalfi Coast

June 28 2012
I'm not exactly sure where I am this morning, except to say that I am in a lovely home in the town of Avilleno, somewhere near Naples. I had the good fortune to be invited to the home of Sergio, who we met a couple of weeks ago near San Miniato. Sergio has stayed in touch with Sylvia and invited us all down for a visit after the walk. It seemed like a very nice way to end this trip, so here we are - Sylvia and I, that is. Gisella goes home from Rome to Milano today, and Joel will leave Rome on Friday for France so we said goodbye to them last night.

The Greek Temple at Paestum

Even though Rome is an amazing place, I have to say it is great to get away from it for a couple of days. I don't care for big cities at the best of times, and I found it especially difficult with all the heat and high volume of tourists. Sleep was next to impossible at the Albergue; the dormitory was like and oven and when we opened the windows to let some air in, the noise and smell from the traffic was even worse. One of the hospitaleros had put a fan in the room, but when Bruno (head hospitalero) saw that the windows were open, he took the fan away again. The logic was that we had a fresh air source so we wouldn't need the fan. He couldn't have been more wrong. In the end, I took my mattress outside to a patio area, and managed to get some sleep, but I was nervous that I would be caught and skulked back in to the dorm early in the morning.

Yesterday we had to be out of the Albergue by 0830 but we wanted to go out early anyway, in order to avoid the big crowds and heat. It was probably 30 degrees by 0900 and the Colosseum was already packed people. Still, we walked around all day, dividing time between the major sites and shopping. I came up dry on the shopping front; no new sandals or dresses for me. I think I am still in pilgrim mode, not in the mood for shopping. We were able to get a late train to Naples, arriving just before midnight and then it was a 30 minute car ride - it feels strange to be in a car again - to Sergio's home.

Sergio,and Sylvia

Later on.....Finally, a chance to use the swimsuit I have lugging around with me for the last 4 weeks; we had a fabulous day swimming in the sea at Paestum and a visit to the Amalfi Coast. Hot sand between my toes, a salty turquoise sea as warm as a bath, enough surf to make it interesting and a lounger under a grass umbrella - was exactly what was needed! In between we visited Greek Doric Temples and a buffalo farm where we sampled all things buffalo, including buffalo mozzarella, buffalo ricotta, smoked buffalo bocconcini, salami and a cappuccino made with buffalo milk! All delicious! Then it was off to the Amalfi Coast, through Salerno and on to the village of Vietre, where we stopped at a specialty store for lovely food products and had a look at the locally produced ceramics. Now, back in Avellina, I have soothed the sunburn I acquired at the beach (will I ever learn?) with a cool shower and lots of Arnica Gel. Once again, I feel tremendously privileged; to be invited here, to have such a fabulous host and Sylvia's excellent company is more than I could have hoped for.

Buffalo Girls Dine Al Fresco

All Things Buffalo

Tomorrow we will visit Mt Vesuvius (wow - pinch me - I never dreamed I wold see all these places) before Sylvia and I go back to Rome on the train or bus. From there, Sylvia will head home to Vienna on the night train and I will take another train to Fuimicino and get a hotel near the airport so I don't have to think about navigating Rome again.

Vietre - Amalfi Coast

Photos of Rome

Dinner at the Albergue in Rome (note Father Christmas on the far left)

Colusseum

Colusseum

Rome!

Ok, once again I have learned that you must not judge by appearances. We spent a torturous night at the Sisters of Poverty; between mosquito bites, a rock hard bed and the heat, it was cruel... We even left the door to our room open in hopes of a cross draft, but to no avail. Both Sylvia and Gisella got up twice each to have cold showers... I must have been sleeping then because I didn't even know they had gotten up. But as I mentioned, I have very good ear plugs so I don't hear much.

First View of Rome

We were up at 0600 anyway, and on the final leg to Rome half an hour later. As expected, our walk today was almost exclusively on the road and it wasn't long before I was dialled in to my music, paying attention only to the VF senales and traffic as required. There was really nothing to see until we got a park about 5 km from St Peter's Square and then....wow, from the height we were at, all of Rome lay before us. It was a nice moment for everyone and the last bit of peace that we would encounter all day. Soon we were making our way down and through the crowded streets for St Peter's to get our testimoniums and attend the Mass there at 1200. Not being a Catholic, for me it was more of a cultural observation than anything else. One of the things I noticed was the all folks working there. First, they were all men, there were a lot of them and, they were all very good looking!

St Peter's Square

The Vat Pack, as I thought of them, came by way of Vatican Police, Clothing Monitors (your shoulders and legs must be covered or you will be turned back), Administrative Officers, Lay Priests, Priests, Money Collectors and other general Dogs Bodies. They were all beautifully turned out, as well. A spiffy bunch and altogether handsome! Do you think it is intentional that they hire all these handsome men, or have I been on the road too long?

Miranda Gets Her Testimonium

After the rituals were over we walked to our Albergue, yet another run by the Confraternita di san Jacabo di Compostella, the famous foot washing hospitaleros. This time I was prepared for the rituals and immediately accepted the offer of refreshment from the Hospitalero who met us at the door. Bruno, who closely resembles someone from a painting by Rapheal and Father Christmas, served us lemon and mint water. As a result of compliance, the entire signing in process was much faster and I was able to get myself into the shower in a reasonable time. I am learning, albeit slowly. And, to my delight the 1 kilo package I posted from Siena was here for me, meaning I had something clean to wear! Maybe next time I will choose a hotel, but here there is the company of my fellow pelligrini, and a very nice meal prepared by one of the hospitaleros, not to mention a stifling dormitory. Much better than an air conditioned hotel room, and as it turns out, technology has prevailed here and we have a fan in the room. Perhaps tonight we will not be bathed in sweat afterall.

Inside St Peter's

Four Feet - Finished

For all intents and purposes, the walk is over. I feel happy, relaxed, sunburnt, blistered, tired and about 3 kg lighter than when I started. However, I still have 3 days before I return home to Canada and like any good adventure, there is still plenty of time for interesting things to happen. Tomorrow, the Colosseum awaits and then it is time for some sandal shopping. After that, who knows?

As I look back on this trip from its inception, I recall it was fraught with indecision and uncertainty. Should I go to Italy, a country I don't know anything about? Should I travel alone, again? Would I get lost? I had heard that the way was not well sign posted... And now, I understand that there was nothing to be concerned about. I like to think I have learned a little more about trusting both myself and others. Things have a way of working out. We meet the people we need to meet, and have the experiences we need to have. That said, I am enormously grateful to all the people who took the time to speak to me, to offer a word of encouragement, the gift of conversation or company. And I am particularly grateful to my my camino family; we have accompanied each other with care and good humour in four languages and as many cultural perspectives.

Thank you too, for taking the time and care to read my posts, and for all your comments. I am glad you enjoyed the writing and the photography and the words. Feel free to stay tuned for more postings... I will be checking in again before I go home later this week.

Ciao ciao... Miranda

Campagnola di Roma to La Storta

Rome in the Distance

After my mega meal at Miami Snack Bar last night, I retreated back to parochial hall leaving the football fans to enjoy the game, but it was still too hot to sleep, so I lay on my bed on the floor with the iPod on until it cooled off a bit more. I was lucky that I had really good ear plugs given to me by my friend Catherine. The others told me this morning that it was 1:30 am before the football frenzy ended!

A Very Tight Fit!

I had a great sleep on my mattress on the floor and for the first time in at least two weeks, no pain in my feet as we set out to walk. At least for the first 10 km, and the remaining 14 km were only slightly uncomfortable. A river crossing where we dangled feet in cold water helped considerably. Today was the second to last day of walking, as we are now just 16 km from Rome. It was surprisingly rural and entirely pleasant. Tomorrow, I expect 16 km of road walking into Rome so I will ensure the iPod is charged and ready to go, as I dislike road walking quite a bit.

Of the four of us, Joel has walked the farthest at 1300 km from his home near Valence, in France. Silvia is next at 1200 km from Lausanne, Switzerland, then Gisella at 830 km from Milan and me at 650km from Fidenza. I didn't think I would make it with them, but it it appears that I will after all.

This evening we are installed at a wonderful convento in La Storta run by the Sisters of Poverty and ironically, the nicest place I have stayed since I began this walk 3.5 weeks ago. It is super clean, nicely finished and we have pine trees outside the window. The women are sharing a room and Joel has a room to himself, but it feels like luxury to me. It is quite amazing how your concept of comfort can change in just a few weeks....

Sutri to Campagnola di Roma

Waiting to Get in to the Carmelite Convento in Sutri

The bed and breakfast was a wise choice in the end; I had a great sleep in the luxury of cotton sheets on a double bed, just the second one since I left home. I even slept through my alarm, but still managed to emerge on the piazza at the agreed time of 0700, rested and ready to roll (Thank goodness they do garbage collection here on Sundays). The others were fine and while they hadn't slept well at the convento, they were happy for me that I had slept.

Gisella asks the Police for a Dinner Recommendation

The situation at the convento reminded me that things are not always as they first appear; when we first walked in, I was taken with the cool, calm and clean feeling of it and envisioned that we would be housed in simple rooms, painted white and with stone floors...a dream... That reminds me of a funny thing that happened the other day when Gisella spotted something moving on the road ahead. She pointed it out and I began suggesting possibilities. "Its a hedgehog, no, its a turtle" I exclaimed as we ran to see it before it disappeared into the grass. In the end, it was... an empty can of Sprite...

The Necropolis at Sutri

Campagnola di Roma

Today's walk was just 24 km, mostly on gravel roads or trails. Just before reaching Campagnola di Roma, we had the requisite steep climb in hot sun on tarmac, and then after getting bad directions from a police officer, a lot of difficulty finding the Albergue, which was in the parochial hall. But Joel eventually found it with his GPS and in no time we were clambering up the three flights of stairs to the dorm, a large room that is normally used for Sunday School. We grabbed mattresses on the floor and set them under windows for maximum ventilation, and street noise and then had showers. By the way, a mattress on the floor is far superior to one on a crappy bed!

A Lavender Fiat 500... Too Cute

I was too wrecked to hobble back to the main part of the town for dinner, so I ate across the street at the Miami Snack Bar.... Sounds inviting, doesn't it? In fact, it wasn't bad. For € 9 I had a bottle of fizzy water, pasta, some kind of unidentified protein and a salad, all in a room filled with football frenzied teenagers Italians. I'm not sure who was playing last night, but it most certainly involved British and Italian teams, based on the anthems I heard playing at the start of the game.

Acquapendente to Sutri

The Lavender Bicycle - Highlight of Acquapendente

What a weird day it has been! None of us got much sleep at the Albergue in Acquapendente last night - it was extremely hot and noisy - but we were on the way by 0515 anyway, leaving the 5 other people (cyclists) who had arrived later, to enjoy a couple of hours more sleep. We had actually been on our way to a different Albergue when we were intercepted by a man in a small gray car (never trust men in small gray cars) who told us he had a new Albergue that was clean, quiet and cool. We took the bait and went there - it was quite a walk - but it turned out to be nine of those things. Still, none of us cared to leave, so we stayed on.

The Hospitalero (yes, the one in the gray car) had given us a map with a 'short-cut' to San Martino, but it was poorly done and we wasted a lot of time standing around discussing the possibilities and asking locals who were out early, for directions. In the end we found it, but it made us all a bit cranky for an hour or so. The trail continued through a very lovely forest park for several kilometres, which was perfect for the solitary moods we were in. Just before the exit we met for a foot break and a snack. Still trying to honour my feet, I had thought I might stay in the next town, but I never actually found it, taking the wrong exit from the park. I ended up walking secondary roads and stopping people occasionally for directions when I needed them. In the end I landed in Sutri, which was about 7 km further than where I had thought I might stay and the others arrived after me.

Joel in the Forest

Sutri is an attractive town with a pretty piazza and lots of Roman ruins, including an amphitheater and necropolis. We checked in at the Convento run by the Carmelite nuns. It was a beautiful cool building of some age, but the pelligrini accommodation was next door as the Carmelites are a silent order and don't actually interact with others. The room for 4 was on the main street side and my initial thought was that it would be noisy and hot. I soon realised that it was smelling badly of dampness but the last straw was the bed, which had a serious list (nautical term for slope) and wanted to chuck me onto the floor when I lay down on it. I apologized to my group, went to the tourist information and after a little haggling with the signora, checked into a Bed and Breakfast on the piazza. I hoped that no one would take offense and that I would have a reasonable sleep.

I am due for a decent sleep; it has been a few days now.

Bolsena to Viterbo

An Afternoon at the Beach

I really enjoy the early hours of the day, which is good, because we were up very early this morning and out the door by 5:15. Actually, I was up most of the night. Not so much because it was hot, which it was, but there must have been something in the soup I had for dinner that did not agree with my body. Add to that Padri Domenico tossing, turning and muttering in his sleep on the other side of the room and it was hopeless. Still, I was able to set out with only minor pain in my left foot and a spring in my limp.

The night before we were busy. We checked out the catacomvs under the cathedral - weird - attended Mass where Padri Domenico was presiding as the visiting priest, and had a nice meal at the same place we had lunch at...not very adventurous I know, but it was so good, and they had WiFi. This is my new name, by the way. Dubbed by Padri Domenico as he watched me scouting around for a signal.

Gisella gets a Pizza

But back to today... Our walk took us away from the beautiful Lago Bolsena, through forest and then eventually back on the Via Cassia, which is the main road. By 0900 we were in Montefiasconi drinking Cappuccinos and eating Panini. The Mozzarella here is fantastic, soft and a little bit stringy... So naturally, my panini had mozzarella, super sweet cherry tomatoes, and arugula.. Yum...

In the Church at San

Despite the promise of a free beer, the second half of the walk was not as pleasant due to the weather being so hot, and the fact that we could see our destination long before we got there. We passed a thermal spring, but the water was hot, I couldn't bear putting my feet into the pool. At another time of year, it would be like an oasis, but yesterday...no. When we finally reached Viterbo at 1500, I made a dash for the first gas station and got some fuel for me, an Iced Tea..gone in seconds. Next stop was for lunch and the promised beer. Padri Domenico had to go back to his parish in order to cover for one of the other priests, so we said a fond goodbye with promises to email.

Padri Domenico

The rest of the was less interesting. viterbo proved to be an unappealing place and lur accommodation was...just ok. What will tomorrow bring? More sun, so it will be an early start for sure..

A Fresco at the Church in San Florenzo

Acqupendente to Bolense

Do You Think we are on the Right Path?

Happy Summer Solstice! This morning I was awake with the birds and out of bed by 0500. Sylvia and I had arranged to leave at 0530, and as we set off for Bolsena, the air was blissfully cool. Along the way, we met several farmers and then Dominic, a priest on vacation, who was also at the Convento last night. Dominic walked with us for the rest of the day and is with us here in the dormitory at the Convento in Bolsena.

The walk was really very nice today, with pleasant views, the majority of which were thankfully on gravel roads or trails. The temperature remained very manageable all day and here there is a beautiful and cooling breeze blowing. Bolsena is a very pretty place, with a number of very old churches, a castle and a big lake! The lake is over 140 km in circumference and seems to be very minimally populated. I see at least one island, and just a very few boats at this end. After a great lunch at a taverna here, 5 of us walked down and dipped our toes in the lake, where the water is like a bath. I so want to go swimming but I am the only one with a swimsuit and as I am reluctant to swim alone, I will have to leave the swimming until I get home. A Canadair water bomber has been here a couple of times filling up, so there must be a forest fire somewhere around here.

Tomorrow will be decision time for me. The others want to start early, which is fine, but it means that I will be in my intended destination 16 km from here, very early in the day. If the weather is like today, I should be able to keep going. But if not I will just cool my heals in Montefiscione.

And now, its time to find an unlocked wireless network so I can post and get my emails! Ciao ciao

Sister Checks us in at the Convento

Radicofone to Acquapendente

Walking on the Autostrada

Ritual is a great thing when it actually serves the people it is intended for, but when it is a ritual for the sake of a ritual, then it isn't so great. Such was the case at the Albergue of the Confraternita di san Jacabo di Compostella. Ok, it was kind of fun to have some cold water splashed on my foot and so on, but it didn't end there. They also had a ritual about breakfast around the table at 0700 and then standing in a circle touching hands and a blessing for a send off. This didn't really work for me or for Sylvia. We were wide awake at 0530 and ready to take off. The forecast was for more hot weather and I didn't want to get scalded again like yesterday. We tried to make a quiet exit but the Hospitalero boys were soon up and tried to ply us with coffee and breakfast before we left. I gave an emphatic no and explained that I was trying to avoid sunstroke, but after about the 5th request, Sylvia relented because she didn't want to offend them.

It was much the same yesterday when we arrived. They must have asked me 4 times if I wanted coffee. No, thank you.... I have just walked 36 km in 40 degree temperatures, but a glass of water, a cold shower and perhaps a stretcher would be much appreciated. Finally it sunk in that they are trained to make coffee when guests arrive, so the only way to get around it was through it. Soon we were dripping perspiration into tiny cups of espresso and grappa ( not a bad combination,by the way - the grappa and espresso, that is). Right, ok can I please have a shower now? No? I must complete the form and hand in my credenziale first. Right, ok here you are. Don't mind the drops of salty sweat on the paper. Please please may I have a shower? And then finally.... In case I sound ungrateful, I am not. It was in fact a very nice place to stay with clean and comfortable beds and good food. The men there were as nice asnice as anyone could be, and I appreciate all,the care they demonstrated. I even washed the dishes!

The Start of the Foot Washing Ritual

As I made my way out of town this morning, one of the Hospitaleros caught up to me and insisted that he see me off at the crossroads. This was very nice of him, but it made feel like a big stronzo, as I knew he would be repeating this again with the others - it is all part of their ritual. But aside from making me feel bad, it made me think about how I am feeling in this extreme weather and what I want the next week or so to look like. My feet and I have definitely reached my maximum tolerance for sun, but provided the feet continue to cooperate a little (the blisters are multiplying), I have decided try and finish, and just 'slow my roll' a little with shorter days, and starting as early as I can. Tomorrow is 22 km, perfectly manageable, even in 42 degrees, provided it isn't on the tarmac.. The next few days after that will be 16, 20 and then 28 km. After that, 24 and the last day at 16 km. If I stick to this plan, I will arrive in Rome on the 27th or 28th at the latest.

Radicofoni in the Distance

Slowing down will mean saying goodbye to my little family, but I am learning to recognize and honor my limitations, and I just can't keep up with them in this heat. I hope we can all meet again in Rome. In the meantime, we are installed at a convento here in Acquapendente. It is a little off the beaten track up a country road, but at least it is quiet and we all have our own rooms tonight!

The walk today was mixed gravel and tarmac with some shade, but mostly exposed. It seems like the last few km of the day are always a steep ascent on tarmac..a seemingly cruel end to an already difficult day. We were fairly melting as we approached the town of Acquapendente, which in contrast to recent places we have stayed, appears to be significantly lacking in charm.

The Last House in Tuscany

At least today my hands did not resemble surgical glove balloons. I met Sylvia about halfway through the day and she gave me her walking sticks to try for keeping the swelling down, and they seemed to work. I think they are the answer in this weather (either that or no walking at all), so if I see a walking stick store I will invest. Also, thanks to all the folks who wrote me about keepijg swelling down!! I am going to try eating a lot more bananas!

Gisella and Joel went back to town about 4pm, but neither Sylvia or I had the energy to make our way back down into the town to forage for food, so we raided the cupboards here in the convento kitchen and had a fine meal of pasta, tinned peas and corn with tuna and melon for dessert. I did t even really feel like eating, but I had no lunch so it was important to eat something. As it is, my pants are hanging on me and if things keep going the way they are, I will likely need a belt to keep them up before the week is out (a happy bi-product of a lot of exercise in extreme temperatures, and one of the things that helps me keep my sense of humor about it)!

San Quirico to Radicofani

Thermal Baths whcih were too early to stop at..

If I was tired yesterday, I'm not sure what I am today... Exhausted is probably the best description. Despite the brutal heat that extended well into the night, I had a pretty good sleep, but 0430 came early and I had to roust myself out of my bed in order to be on the road by 0500. We thought we had 32 km to cover, but more on that later. Early morning is a fine time of day to be outside, and for photography. And this reminds me, I was able to purchase a universal charger for my camera battery last night and was back in business this morning taking photos.

Butterfly Visits Flower

The morning wore on, and just like yesterday, it was really hot by about 0730. The only thing that made it a little more bearable was the breeze, which thankfully stayed with us all day. We made a few stops in shade and twice at bars for sustenance. I drank no less than 4 litres of fluid, including water, gatorade, coffee and lemonade but expelled only about 250 mls the whole day. In spite of all the fluids, my hands decided to do an imitation of surgical gloves which have been inflated. At one point today they hurt because they were so puffy, and I wondered how more fluid they could handle before they were rendered useless. Sylvia referred to me as the 'Sweet Little Michelin Woman'. At least it gave the situation some comic relief, but if anyone has any solutions for this problem, aside from putting one's hands above the heart, do let me know.

Gisella, Joel, Sylvia and I have become a nice little family. We walk in a loose group, usually with Gisella or Joel in the lead and me lagging behind by a hundred metres or so, and when there are important turns, we wait for the last person. Its nice when it feels like the day will never end and there is someone else nearby. As I mentioned earlier, we thought we had 32 km to cover, but in the end it was a little longer by about 4 km,due to inaccurate mapping.

Walking on the Shoe Melting Autostrada

And now, after a brief rest for my throbbing feet (I owe them big time, perhaps a new pair shoes or sandals or both in Rome), I have been staggering around the ancient streets of charming Radicofani, hoping to find Wifi and to my surprise, I got an unlocked wireless signal outside the police station.... Best make my post before they catch me stealing Wifi...

Radicofani in the Distance

Ponte D'Arbia to Quirico

That is Me on the Right...

You know its hot when I lose my appetite and you know its really hot when I don't want a beer. Ok, I still want a beer, but Holy Blazing Saddles it is hot! The Padri here at the Albergue in Quirico d'Orcia said it was 41 degrees yesterday and again today. I believe it... This morning we left the Albergue at a reasonable time around 5:30 am. To our surprise, the local bar was already open so we made the requisite coffee stop, relishing the opportunity for an early morning cappuccino and croissant.

The terrain was much like yesterday, rolling hills, vineyards and other kinds of crops such as clover and sunflowers. There seemed to be more opportunities for shade, and we made several stops under shady trees when they appeared. At one such place, Sylvia appeared and we all walked together for the rest of the way, more or less. There was a lot of road walking today, and as you know, the tarmac just sucks up,the heat of the sun and then radiates it back up through your shoes and into the air. My shoes felt like they were melting and the sweat was running off me in little streams. In order to cope with the discomfort of it, I turned on the iPod and cranked up the volume. Soon I was absorbed in music designed to get me moving and grooving, which it did. So, although we were all together, I was in my 'happy place' and unavailable for easy communication.

Sylvia, Miranda, Daniella, Gisella and Joel at a water stop

By 1300 we were all here in beautiful and ancient San Quirico, standing outside the Albergue. Gisella ( who is my hero) called the Padri on her mobile phone and asked him to please come and let us in. He had wanted us to wait until 1430, but she told him we were very hot and tired, so he relented and came and opened the door for us. Grazie Padri, but more importantly Grazie a Gisella! Not only does she call,all over on her phone for us, but she has become my photographer as well, sharing her camera and iamges with me for the last day and a half. The battery on my camera finally exhausted itself, and now the charger won't work! I am hoping to rectify this, but in the meantime I am very grateful for the wonderful Gisella for yet another reason! Anyhow, after a shower my appetite returned and after a wonderful lunch of salad, beer and chocolate torte, I was ready for a nap!


Well, not quite. Now it is too hot in the Albergue to sleep, so I have been wandering the streets of lovely San Quirico with my iPad looking for an unlocked Wifi. For a while I was sitting on the sidewalk outside a dress shop picking up someone's unlocked signal but then Gisella found an air conditioned Internet Cafe that also sells photo related things, so maybe I will be doubly lucky and find some sort of generic battery charger for the camera...

The Water Fountain get Dressed Up

As a sidebar, I undersntad that Paul MaCartney is in the area to celebrate his 70th birthday. I was kind of hoping he would pass by in his Ferrari, take pity on the poor pelligrini and invite us all back to the Villa for a glass of wine, but no luck,ther yet. In any case, Happy Birthday Paul and I guess you might have to rethink the lyrics to that song "When I'm 64"...

Joel's Sorbetto

Tomorrow, we have to walk 32 km, but in order to accomplish this without getting heatstroke we will have to be up and out the door at day break. Walking in the dark is an option, but only with a really good headlamp. Wouldn't want to step in a pothole or miss one of the segnales!

A final note is a word of thanks to Sergio who gave me one of his shopping bag cum backpacks before he returned home yesterday! It is the perfect bag for toting the iPod around. Cheers Sergio!