Napoli and Rome again...

The Narrow Streets of Napoli

Ok, so we didn't make it to Mt. Vesuvius... this time. It was late this morning by the time we got going and we missed our opportunity to go and still have time to catch the train. Sylvia and Sergio had stayed up late and then there was the massive celebration in the streets until 1 or 2 in the morning, which kept everyone awake. It probably goes without saying that Italy won the match.

While we were waiting for Sylvia to organise her bag this morning, Sergio showed me his extensive and enviable collection of travel books, many of which were in English. As I drooled over all the possibilities, we discussed the possibility of meeting somewhere else in Italy or Portugal for a walk next year.

In any case, our plan for today evolved to go to Napoli, have a pizza and then get the train to Rome. And that is where I am now. A few minutes ago, I pulled the ipad out to use primarily as a fan because the train was like a sauna, but then we discovered that ours was the only car without air conditioning, we promptly moved and I was able to release the ipad from fan fan duty.

Pizza for One... Why arent Italians Fat?

Sergio has been an absolute star; aside from picking us up, hosting us in his beautiful home and yesterday's tour, this morning he drove us back to Naples and gave us the back streets tour. Unlike Rome, Naples feels real place and not contrived for tourists. I had been warned about all the crime there, but I did not feel unsafe and to my surprise, I liked it. Little alleys built on old roman sites, and an underground city and catacombs. Understated, but full of life and interest, as well as excellent pizza at Gino Sorbillo's. We each ordered a different kind and then shared pieces. The rumor is that Sorbillo's restaurant was recently torched by the Mafia, but they rebuilt and opened again for business in 20 days. Sergio says that there is a good school in Naples if you want to learn to be a pizza cook, and good pizza cooks make more than €2000.00 a month, which isn't a bad wage here in Italy.

Later still... I am at a Bed and Breakfast in Fiumicino that I found on the internet. It is basic, and a little misleading from the super photos they had posted, but it is clean and the owners who are from Argentina, are very nice. I am down to my last 5 euro, so they are going to drive me the the Bancomat later on, which is very kind, especially since I have already paid them.

With just a few hours left before I board my plane to Canada, this adventure is drawing to a close. Italy has been a wonderful surprise for me in so many ways. It's beauty, the genuine warmth of the people and fine food will surely keep me coming back again and again....

Paestum and Amalfi Coast

June 28 2012
I'm not exactly sure where I am this morning, except to say that I am in a lovely home in the town of Avilleno, somewhere near Naples. I had the good fortune to be invited to the home of Sergio, who we met a couple of weeks ago near San Miniato. Sergio has stayed in touch with Sylvia and invited us all down for a visit after the walk. It seemed like a very nice way to end this trip, so here we are - Sylvia and I, that is. Gisella goes home from Rome to Milano today, and Joel will leave Rome on Friday for France so we said goodbye to them last night.

The Greek Temple at Paestum

Even though Rome is an amazing place, I have to say it is great to get away from it for a couple of days. I don't care for big cities at the best of times, and I found it especially difficult with all the heat and high volume of tourists. Sleep was next to impossible at the Albergue; the dormitory was like and oven and when we opened the windows to let some air in, the noise and smell from the traffic was even worse. One of the hospitaleros had put a fan in the room, but when Bruno (head hospitalero) saw that the windows were open, he took the fan away again. The logic was that we had a fresh air source so we wouldn't need the fan. He couldn't have been more wrong. In the end, I took my mattress outside to a patio area, and managed to get some sleep, but I was nervous that I would be caught and skulked back in to the dorm early in the morning.

Yesterday we had to be out of the Albergue by 0830 but we wanted to go out early anyway, in order to avoid the big crowds and heat. It was probably 30 degrees by 0900 and the Colosseum was already packed people. Still, we walked around all day, dividing time between the major sites and shopping. I came up dry on the shopping front; no new sandals or dresses for me. I think I am still in pilgrim mode, not in the mood for shopping. We were able to get a late train to Naples, arriving just before midnight and then it was a 30 minute car ride - it feels strange to be in a car again - to Sergio's home.

Sergio,and Sylvia

Later on.....Finally, a chance to use the swimsuit I have lugging around with me for the last 4 weeks; we had a fabulous day swimming in the sea at Paestum and a visit to the Amalfi Coast. Hot sand between my toes, a salty turquoise sea as warm as a bath, enough surf to make it interesting and a lounger under a grass umbrella - was exactly what was needed! In between we visited Greek Doric Temples and a buffalo farm where we sampled all things buffalo, including buffalo mozzarella, buffalo ricotta, smoked buffalo bocconcini, salami and a cappuccino made with buffalo milk! All delicious! Then it was off to the Amalfi Coast, through Salerno and on to the village of Vietre, where we stopped at a specialty store for lovely food products and had a look at the locally produced ceramics. Now, back in Avellina, I have soothed the sunburn I acquired at the beach (will I ever learn?) with a cool shower and lots of Arnica Gel. Once again, I feel tremendously privileged; to be invited here, to have such a fabulous host and Sylvia's excellent company is more than I could have hoped for.

Buffalo Girls Dine Al Fresco

All Things Buffalo

Tomorrow we will visit Mt Vesuvius (wow - pinch me - I never dreamed I wold see all these places) before Sylvia and I go back to Rome on the train or bus. From there, Sylvia will head home to Vienna on the night train and I will take another train to Fuimicino and get a hotel near the airport so I don't have to think about navigating Rome again.

Vietre - Amalfi Coast

Photos of Rome

Dinner at the Albergue in Rome (note Father Christmas on the far left)

Colusseum

Colusseum

Rome!

Ok, once again I have learned that you must not judge by appearances. We spent a torturous night at the Sisters of Poverty; between mosquito bites, a rock hard bed and the heat, it was cruel... We even left the door to our room open in hopes of a cross draft, but to no avail. Both Sylvia and Gisella got up twice each to have cold showers... I must have been sleeping then because I didn't even know they had gotten up. But as I mentioned, I have very good ear plugs so I don't hear much.

First View of Rome

We were up at 0600 anyway, and on the final leg to Rome half an hour later. As expected, our walk today was almost exclusively on the road and it wasn't long before I was dialled in to my music, paying attention only to the VF senales and traffic as required. There was really nothing to see until we got a park about 5 km from St Peter's Square and then....wow, from the height we were at, all of Rome lay before us. It was a nice moment for everyone and the last bit of peace that we would encounter all day. Soon we were making our way down and through the crowded streets for St Peter's to get our testimoniums and attend the Mass there at 1200. Not being a Catholic, for me it was more of a cultural observation than anything else. One of the things I noticed was the all folks working there. First, they were all men, there were a lot of them and, they were all very good looking!

St Peter's Square

The Vat Pack, as I thought of them, came by way of Vatican Police, Clothing Monitors (your shoulders and legs must be covered or you will be turned back), Administrative Officers, Lay Priests, Priests, Money Collectors and other general Dogs Bodies. They were all beautifully turned out, as well. A spiffy bunch and altogether handsome! Do you think it is intentional that they hire all these handsome men, or have I been on the road too long?

Miranda Gets Her Testimonium

After the rituals were over we walked to our Albergue, yet another run by the Confraternita di san Jacabo di Compostella, the famous foot washing hospitaleros. This time I was prepared for the rituals and immediately accepted the offer of refreshment from the Hospitalero who met us at the door. Bruno, who closely resembles someone from a painting by Rapheal and Father Christmas, served us lemon and mint water. As a result of compliance, the entire signing in process was much faster and I was able to get myself into the shower in a reasonable time. I am learning, albeit slowly. And, to my delight the 1 kilo package I posted from Siena was here for me, meaning I had something clean to wear! Maybe next time I will choose a hotel, but here there is the company of my fellow pelligrini, and a very nice meal prepared by one of the hospitaleros, not to mention a stifling dormitory. Much better than an air conditioned hotel room, and as it turns out, technology has prevailed here and we have a fan in the room. Perhaps tonight we will not be bathed in sweat afterall.

Inside St Peter's

Four Feet - Finished

For all intents and purposes, the walk is over. I feel happy, relaxed, sunburnt, blistered, tired and about 3 kg lighter than when I started. However, I still have 3 days before I return home to Canada and like any good adventure, there is still plenty of time for interesting things to happen. Tomorrow, the Colosseum awaits and then it is time for some sandal shopping. After that, who knows?

As I look back on this trip from its inception, I recall it was fraught with indecision and uncertainty. Should I go to Italy, a country I don't know anything about? Should I travel alone, again? Would I get lost? I had heard that the way was not well sign posted... And now, I understand that there was nothing to be concerned about. I like to think I have learned a little more about trusting both myself and others. Things have a way of working out. We meet the people we need to meet, and have the experiences we need to have. That said, I am enormously grateful to all the people who took the time to speak to me, to offer a word of encouragement, the gift of conversation or company. And I am particularly grateful to my my camino family; we have accompanied each other with care and good humour in four languages and as many cultural perspectives.

Thank you too, for taking the time and care to read my posts, and for all your comments. I am glad you enjoyed the writing and the photography and the words. Feel free to stay tuned for more postings... I will be checking in again before I go home later this week.

Ciao ciao... Miranda

Campagnola di Roma to La Storta

Rome in the Distance

After my mega meal at Miami Snack Bar last night, I retreated back to parochial hall leaving the football fans to enjoy the game, but it was still too hot to sleep, so I lay on my bed on the floor with the iPod on until it cooled off a bit more. I was lucky that I had really good ear plugs given to me by my friend Catherine. The others told me this morning that it was 1:30 am before the football frenzy ended!

A Very Tight Fit!

I had a great sleep on my mattress on the floor and for the first time in at least two weeks, no pain in my feet as we set out to walk. At least for the first 10 km, and the remaining 14 km were only slightly uncomfortable. A river crossing where we dangled feet in cold water helped considerably. Today was the second to last day of walking, as we are now just 16 km from Rome. It was surprisingly rural and entirely pleasant. Tomorrow, I expect 16 km of road walking into Rome so I will ensure the iPod is charged and ready to go, as I dislike road walking quite a bit.

Of the four of us, Joel has walked the farthest at 1300 km from his home near Valence, in France. Silvia is next at 1200 km from Lausanne, Switzerland, then Gisella at 830 km from Milan and me at 650km from Fidenza. I didn't think I would make it with them, but it it appears that I will after all.

This evening we are installed at a wonderful convento in La Storta run by the Sisters of Poverty and ironically, the nicest place I have stayed since I began this walk 3.5 weeks ago. It is super clean, nicely finished and we have pine trees outside the window. The women are sharing a room and Joel has a room to himself, but it feels like luxury to me. It is quite amazing how your concept of comfort can change in just a few weeks....

Sutri to Campagnola di Roma

Waiting to Get in to the Carmelite Convento in Sutri

The bed and breakfast was a wise choice in the end; I had a great sleep in the luxury of cotton sheets on a double bed, just the second one since I left home. I even slept through my alarm, but still managed to emerge on the piazza at the agreed time of 0700, rested and ready to roll (Thank goodness they do garbage collection here on Sundays). The others were fine and while they hadn't slept well at the convento, they were happy for me that I had slept.

Gisella asks the Police for a Dinner Recommendation

The situation at the convento reminded me that things are not always as they first appear; when we first walked in, I was taken with the cool, calm and clean feeling of it and envisioned that we would be housed in simple rooms, painted white and with stone floors...a dream... That reminds me of a funny thing that happened the other day when Gisella spotted something moving on the road ahead. She pointed it out and I began suggesting possibilities. "Its a hedgehog, no, its a turtle" I exclaimed as we ran to see it before it disappeared into the grass. In the end, it was... an empty can of Sprite...

The Necropolis at Sutri

Campagnola di Roma

Today's walk was just 24 km, mostly on gravel roads or trails. Just before reaching Campagnola di Roma, we had the requisite steep climb in hot sun on tarmac, and then after getting bad directions from a police officer, a lot of difficulty finding the Albergue, which was in the parochial hall. But Joel eventually found it with his GPS and in no time we were clambering up the three flights of stairs to the dorm, a large room that is normally used for Sunday School. We grabbed mattresses on the floor and set them under windows for maximum ventilation, and street noise and then had showers. By the way, a mattress on the floor is far superior to one on a crappy bed!

A Lavender Fiat 500... Too Cute

I was too wrecked to hobble back to the main part of the town for dinner, so I ate across the street at the Miami Snack Bar.... Sounds inviting, doesn't it? In fact, it wasn't bad. For € 9 I had a bottle of fizzy water, pasta, some kind of unidentified protein and a salad, all in a room filled with football frenzied teenagers Italians. I'm not sure who was playing last night, but it most certainly involved British and Italian teams, based on the anthems I heard playing at the start of the game.

Acquapendente to Sutri

The Lavender Bicycle - Highlight of Acquapendente

What a weird day it has been! None of us got much sleep at the Albergue in Acquapendente last night - it was extremely hot and noisy - but we were on the way by 0515 anyway, leaving the 5 other people (cyclists) who had arrived later, to enjoy a couple of hours more sleep. We had actually been on our way to a different Albergue when we were intercepted by a man in a small gray car (never trust men in small gray cars) who told us he had a new Albergue that was clean, quiet and cool. We took the bait and went there - it was quite a walk - but it turned out to be nine of those things. Still, none of us cared to leave, so we stayed on.

The Hospitalero (yes, the one in the gray car) had given us a map with a 'short-cut' to San Martino, but it was poorly done and we wasted a lot of time standing around discussing the possibilities and asking locals who were out early, for directions. In the end we found it, but it made us all a bit cranky for an hour or so. The trail continued through a very lovely forest park for several kilometres, which was perfect for the solitary moods we were in. Just before the exit we met for a foot break and a snack. Still trying to honour my feet, I had thought I might stay in the next town, but I never actually found it, taking the wrong exit from the park. I ended up walking secondary roads and stopping people occasionally for directions when I needed them. In the end I landed in Sutri, which was about 7 km further than where I had thought I might stay and the others arrived after me.

Joel in the Forest

Sutri is an attractive town with a pretty piazza and lots of Roman ruins, including an amphitheater and necropolis. We checked in at the Convento run by the Carmelite nuns. It was a beautiful cool building of some age, but the pelligrini accommodation was next door as the Carmelites are a silent order and don't actually interact with others. The room for 4 was on the main street side and my initial thought was that it would be noisy and hot. I soon realised that it was smelling badly of dampness but the last straw was the bed, which had a serious list (nautical term for slope) and wanted to chuck me onto the floor when I lay down on it. I apologized to my group, went to the tourist information and after a little haggling with the signora, checked into a Bed and Breakfast on the piazza. I hoped that no one would take offense and that I would have a reasonable sleep.

I am due for a decent sleep; it has been a few days now.